Basic Bodice Sloper

The basic bodice sloper is something to be revered; but we often take it for granted.

The sloper is vital to even the lowest quality clothes makers, it’s just that they often don’t use slopers, that properly fit any normal person.

Today I’m going to show you how to make your own bodice sloper. Be patient and measure twice.

Measurements (size 12 in brackets):

Nape to waist (40.4cm)

Armhole depth (18cm)

Bust girth (87cm)

Neck base girth (37cm)

Half across back (16.2cm)

Armhole girth (42.6cm)

Arm whole width (11cm)

Nape to bust point (26.5cm)

Bust dart width (5.5cm)

Basic Bodice Sloper:

1. Square out a horizontal and vertical line from point 0. Top left of your page.

Step 1 BBS

2. On the vertical line mark 1.5cm down for the back neck depth 1 (all sizes).

Step 2. BBS

3. On the vertical line from 1 measure nape to waist and mark 2.

Step 3. BBS

4. On the vertical line from measure armhole depth plus 4cm and mark 3. Square out.

Step 4. BBS

5. Measure half way between  and 3 and mark 4.

Step 5. BBS

6. Measure on the horizontal from half bust plus 5cm tolerance and mark 5. Draw a line vertically to the top and mark 6  and vertically to the bottom plus 1.3cm and mark  7. Add 1cm for each size up.

Step 6. BBS          Step 7. BBS          Step 8. BBS

7. Horizontally from point  measure neck base girth divided by 6 plus 1.4cm and mark 8. Shape for the back neck.

Step 9. BBS                    Step 10. BBS

8. Measure horizontally from point 3, half the across back plus 1.8cm tolerance and mark 9.

Step 11. BBS

9. Measure vertically up from 9, the armhole girth plus 2.5cm divided by 6 and mark  10.

10. Measure vertically up from 10, the armhole girth plus 2.5cm divided by 4 and mark 11.

Step. 12 BBS

11. Measure horizontally from 9, the armhole width and mark 12.

12. Repeat steps 9. and 10. with marking numbers 13  and  14.

Step 13. BBS

13. Mark 15, half way between 3 and 5. This will be the top of the side seam.

14. Square vertically down plus 1cm from 15  and mark 16. Increase by 0.3cm for each size up.

Step 14. BBS

15. Mark 0.5cm vertically down from 14 and mark 17.

Step 15. BBS

16. Measure vertically down from 6 neck base girth divided by 6 plus 1.6cm tolerance and mark 18.

Step 16. BBS

17. Measure horizontally left from  neck base girth divided by 6 plus 0.5cm tolerance and mark 19. Shape for front neck.

Step 17. BBS

18. Measure half way between 5 and 12 and mark 20.

Step 18. BBS

19. Square down to point 21 plus 1.8cm. Increase by 0.7cm for each size.

Step 19. BBS

20. In the same way measure half way between 3 and 9 plus 1cm and mark 22.

21. Square down to point 23 plus 0.5cm.

22. Measure diagonally down to the left from 19 nape to bust point and mark 24.

Step 20. BBS

23. Measure 1.5cm vertically up from 24 and mark 25.

24. Measure 1.5cm vertically down from 24 and mark 26.

Step 21. BBS

25. Join 25 to 19.

Step 23. BBS

26. Measure horizontally left from 19 bust dart width and mark 27. Connect 27 to 25.

Step 24. BBS

27. Draw an arc horizontally through 11. Connect 8 so it intersects this line at roughly 13cm.

28. Draw an arc horizontally through 17. Connect 27 so it intersects this line at roughly 12cm.

29. Draw in the armhole curve hitting the two intersected points from steps 27. and 28., points 10 and 13, and point 15. Try to leave 2.5cm from the corner points 9 and 12.

Step 26. BBS

30. Draw and arc horizontally at points 21, 16 and 23. These points will become darts and the side seam.

Step 27. BBS

31. Mark either side of 21 2.5cm and mark 28 and 29. Connect each with 26.

Step 28 BBS

32. Mark either side of 16 2cm and mark 30 and 31. Connect each with 15.

Step 29. BBS

33. Mark either side of 23 1.75cm and mark 32  and 33. Connect each with 22.

Step 30. BBS

Fill in the lines for the bodice sloper and cut out your front and back bodice panels.

Step 31. BBS

Tips: Use a pencil to measure and mark, and a pen to create solid lines, this way you know what shape your sloper is without having to rub out the marking lines.

If you want a fully tailored sloper, you may want to create a full, front bodice pattern and a full, back bodice pattern, this is most useful for suits.

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