Asymmetric Tunic

Remember the basic bodice sloper from my previous post?

Well what’s the point in making a sloper unless your going to use it to make some clothes?!

I recently bought some wet look leggings, and wanted to make a top to wear them with for going out in the evenings.

Today I’m going to show you how I made this:

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What you’ll need:

Lining fabric 1m

Main fabric 1m

Thread (to suit the colours of each fabric)

Shears

Tailors chalk

Paper

Pen

And your perfect fit sloper

Let’s begin:

  1. In order to be able to make this tunic from your sloper, you will first need to alter the shape of your pattern. I wanted to have my bust dart under my arms and so I needed to move it. Woah! Just move my dart? I hear you say. Well, yeah, it’s more simple than you probably think.

Remember that we drew our darts 1.5cm either side of the bust point, well lets turn that into a 3cm circle around the same mark. If we then draw a line where we want our new dart to be and cut out the area between the two darts, we should be able to swivel that area to illuminate the original dart, and in doing so create our dart.

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2. With our new dart in place, we need to create the new shape for our tunic. Take your paper, (I used tracing paper) and place your sloper behind it so you can trace the dart in the right place. To create the slimmed shoulder straps I traced the shoulder seam, but left off 4cm at each end. I then shaped the neckline in a deep sweeping curve, with the lowest point being at the centre front line.

I then measured the length at which I wanted the tunic to sit and draw a slightly diagonal line from the lower bust dart line to this length. To create the asymmetric hemline I created a point further down from the length I just measured roughly 5cm and about 10cm in from the line i just drew. I then worked out the angle at which the asymmetric hem line would meet with the other side of the front bodice and drew this in. Because of the asymmetric hemline the front bodice will need to be cut out in one piece, rather than on the fold, so to save paper I drew both sides of the hemline on the base of the front bodice pattern, which you can see in the picture.

To create the back bodice, I drew out the side seams to the same length (45cm)  as the front side seams and drew in a flat hem. If you want to make sure the tunic fits, make sure the width of the hem is wider than your hips.

It is important to note that I didn’t include the waist seams.

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Now comes the straight forward bit!!

3. For the back bodice, fold over the fabric to the width of the pattern piece and pin or place the pattern piece along the fold. Using the tailors chalk, draw around the pattern, adding 1.5cm seam allowance.

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4. Using shears, cut along the tailors chalk line.

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5. For the front bodice ensure there is enough room to flip the pattern and draw around the pattern twice, making sure to tuck in the hemline for one side. If you’re using patterned fabric ensure to have the point of the hem opposite on the lining.

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6. Using shears cut out the front bodice. Ensure steps 3-6 are completed for both lining and main fabric.

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7. The next step is to pin the darts in place. Try to pin along the line, this will help to keep the stitching straight.

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8. You then want to sew all the darts, on both lining and main fabric, ensure the darts on the main fabric are opposite to those on the lining, this way the excess fabric will be kept inside the garment, rather than being against the skin.

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9. To secure the darts, I like to tie a small knot at the point. This helps to stop the thread from coming out.

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10. OPTIONAL. Because I’m using using shear fabric, I top stitched the dart down.

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11. The next step is to sew the side seams of the lining and upper together.

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12. You want to leave the shoulder seams, because this is key, to being able to turn the lining through the right way. So your next step is to sew the arm and neck seams together. You will want to place the main fabric inside the lining to create a tube to make this easier. Make sure to leave about 3cm before the end of the shoulder seams.

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13. In order to be able to have a smooth finish you will want to snip the seam allowance around the neck and arm seams. This allows the fabric to sit flat against the body.

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14. Turn through and iron all seams.

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15. Remember we didn’t sew up the shoulder seams? This is out next step. You want to sew the lining shoulder seams on both sides and the main fabric shoulder seams on both sides together. This shouldn’t be too difficult.

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16. When you turn these round the right way, you will see that they create a completed shape, but without being attached to the lining. To solve this you need to slip stitch the gaps.

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17. The next step is to double turn hem the bottom, I like to iron the turn before sewing it, especially on fine fabrics as they can easily warp.

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18. Give the top a good press and away you go!

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You could also try doing differently shaped hem lines. Maybe try a dipped back, scallop or fluted edge.

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