Sleeves, for people who sew, are usually the bane of their lives. Not only are they fiddly to sew in, but they are also a little fiddly to create the pattern to and even in some of the most thorough pattern books, they suggest that you play around with the fit for each garment.
That doesn’t leave us in a very good place to just create the perfect sleeve block, but we will give it ago and just as the books recommend, play around with the fit, until it’s perfect.
For this you will need you bodice sloper.
Basic Sleeve Sloper
1.Trace off the scye box from your front and back bodice sloper patterns.
2. Marks points A, B, C and 15.
3. Point D marks the crown height plus of minus 0.6cm per size, which for a size 12 is 15cm.
(There is a fantastic explanation for crown height measurements on Making Shapes Co.)
4. Measure 3cm from B and mark E for the back drape.
5. Measure 2cm from A and mark F for the front drape.
6. Measure 1cm up from 15 and mark G.
7. Horizontally left from G measure 1.5cm and mark H. Connect H-G-F-D-E for the sleeve head.
8. Take the underarm length measurement and from point G measure this down to mark I.
9. Square down from points F and E to points J and K.
10. Folding the paper on line F-J trace the curve F-G and mark L. Mark M on the wrist line.
11. Repeat for curve E-G. Mark O on the wrist line.
12. Drawn in crown line and full arm length and there you have it, a basic sleeve block.
Note: This will produce a set-in sleeve not really suitable for casual clothing, for that you will need to slacken off the crown height and widen the area around he bicep.
Think of the difference between a Kimono sleeve and a blazer sleeve, there is almost no shaping in the Kimono sleeve compared to the blazer sleeve.