To finish up the series of block tutorials, today, we’re looking at the trouser block. I have to admit trousers are not the easiest thing to make, and even harder is getting them to fit properly. My advice following this blog it to make a toile (mock up version of the basic trouser block) to ensure you’ve got a good fit.
For this you will need the basic skirt slopers from my previous post.
You will need the body rise measurement for this pattern. For this you should sit on a flat surface and using a ruler measure the distance from the flat surface to your waist line from the side of your body. I do not hug the measurement as this can add excess.
Instructions – Front Panel:
1.Mark 0 and draw around the front of the skirt sloper (just the hip section) with the central waist point at 0.
2. Draw in the waist darts. Point 1 is found centrally inside the inner dart.
3. Vertically down from 0 mark the body rise measurement 2.
4. Square out horizontally 2 to 3 and vertically up to meet the outside seam hip point 4.
5. From point 1 measure the outside leg length minus 1cm ,vertically down and mark 5. Square out both ways.
6. The knee crease is found halfway between the body rise line and the hem, with 6cm towards the body rise. Square out both ways.
7. Horizontally from 2 mark 7 which is 2/10 of the half hip girth, minus 1cm. This creates the front fork.
8. At a 45degree angle from 2-7 mark 8 which is 1/10 of the half hip girth minus 1cm.
9. Gently curve a line from 7 through 8 and up to 0 to form the front central seam (front fork).
10.Measure out from 6 3/10 of the half hip girth minus 1.5cm and mark 9.
11. Repeat on the other side and mark 10.
12. On the hem line measure out 1/5 of the half hip girth plus 1.5cm and mark 11.
13. Repeat on the other side and mark 12.
14. Connect 11-10-4 and 12-9-7.
15. Mark 0. Draw around the back skirt panel to the hip line with the center seam waist point at 0.
16. Measure 1/6 of the half hip girth from 0 and mark 13. Place the existing dart on this line.
17. Mark vertically down point 14 which is the body rise and square across to 15 and up to meet the outside seam hip point 16.
18. Mark point 17 vertically below 13 at the outside leg measurement minus 1cm. Square out both ways.
19. The knee crease, point 18 is found at the same point as on the front leg panel.
20. Measure out horizontally from 18 the same as points 9 and 10 plus 1.5cm each side.
21. Measure out horizontally from 17 the same as points 11 and 12 plus 1cm either side.
22. Measure out horizontally from 14 3/10 of the half hip girth minus 1.5cm and mark 24.
23. Connect 21-19-24 and 22-20-16.
24. Mark point 25 0.5cm towards 24 from 14. (This is an angle that you might need to play around with)
25. Draw a diagonally straight line from 25 through the waist line to 26 which is 1.5cm above the waist line.
26. Connect 26-27 to create the waist line.
27. Mark the outside seam waist point 29 and measure 1.5cm in and mark 28.
28. Mark 31 at a 45degree angle from 25-24 which is 1/10 half hip girth.
29. Connect 24-31/30-26 for the back seat angle.
30. Draw out full lines and you are ready to go.
Please remember that this block is for a straight trouser, from waist to hem.