Simple Trouser Tutorial

Having made our trouser block, I am going to show you how you can use it to create a pair of simple trousers.

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I chose to use cream satin for these trousers, mostly because I saw a pair of cream satin trousers on the LFW SS16 catwalk and loved them. The problem with working with satin is that it often moved when you sew it and this can make getting a perfect finish difficult. But I’m pleased with how they turned out.

Pattern:

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To create the trouser pattern, I dropped 10cm from the waistline and thinned out the legs. With the front panel I wanted pockets and so cut a smooth curve at the side seam, wide enough for a hand to pass through. I then cut the two pocket panels, one the completed the waistline of the trouser, and the other that is hidden behind the front panel. For the pocket openings I cut a panel piece that will flap over the opening of the pocket so it is not flat. I also wanted a front zip and so cut a small U shape and half U shape panels, which will be used to go behind the zip.

Instructions:

1.Measure, mark and cut the fabric.

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2. Sew the darts.

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3. Sew the long edge of the pocket flaps. Snip the long curve and press on right side.

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4. Sew the pocket flaps to the pocket opening (trouser panel and pocket panel). Machine sew one side and slip stitch the other.

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5. Sew the round of the pockets together.

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6. Sew the outside and inside leg seams together. Remember to sew back leg panel to front leg panel, rather than front to front and back to back.

7. Fold the U shaped panel in half and with the zip between the right opening on the front panel and the folded U shaped panel.

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8. With the half U shaped panel, sew the straight edge to the left opening on the front panel.

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9. Sew the zip to the right side of this half U panel so that it meets with the other side. (I did this by doing the zip up and making sure the seams of the openings met).

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10. Sew the crotch seams together. To do this you must put one leg inside the other right sides together, to make a single leg shape.

11. Making sure to stop at the crotch seam, cover stitch the half U panel to the front panel.

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12. Sew on the waist band, hem the trouser legs and sew on a button or hook and eye.

13. Press the trousers.

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